Baja los gringos
Stuck in Quito since our return from the Galapagos, we decided to brave the strikes today and make an attempt at returning to Zuleta. The people at the bus station told us "Hay un paro, no hay paso"- "There is a strike. You can't pass." To which we replied, "Yes, well this one company says they have found a way, it will just take a little longer." So we climbed aboard, ready to endure a long bus ride, thinking to catch up on a little sleep. The bus became more and more full as we lumbered out of Quito until all seats were taken and the aisles packed. Each person asked, "Ibarra? Really? you can take me to Ibarra?" At first they said yes, then changed this to Cayambe, many miles south, and then a full hour before Cayambe we arrived to a line of fire and smoke, indigenous strikers raising sticks in the air, and all vehicles and buses turning around. The passengers on the bus grew angry asking for their money back, and the people working the bus begin ushering us down into the street. "There are cars on the other side," they said. The strikers yelled, "Viva los campesinos, viva los Ecuatorianos, baja Los Estados Unidos, baja los gringos, baja Bush" Long live the farmers, long live the Ecuadorians, Down with the United states, Down with bush, and we wondered if we should hop back on one of those buses turning around for Quito.
Ecuador has been in negotiation with the United States for quite some time about a free trade agreement, the TLC. The country is deeply divided over this issue with many thinking this agreement will be the death of local agriculture, small market economy, and generic drugs. Others see this as a boost to the economy, a further step in development, opportunity for more employment, more exportation, and greater access to foreign goods. It is hard for me to believe that such an agreement could benefit Ecuador, as previous free trade agreements with latin america have not served those countries well (anyone hear about the new Walmart Central America?. I think this agreement needs to be challenged and questioned, however they are so far into negotiations at this point that some suggest that the United States will hault all trade with ecuador if they don't sign.
Cameron stood uncertainly, black smoke blowing in front of him, backpack strapped behind him and asked "¿Pudemos pasar?" "Yes, go ahead, but only if you are European, or against Bush." We walked quickly across the debree, all eyes following us, and as I was clearing the smoke someone asked, "Where are you from?" I chose not to answer.
We have made it to Cayambe, and decided not to cross any more strike lines today, or at all if we can help it. As I walk down the street I feel stares burning my white skin and wish I had some way to let the world know that I don't approve of the exploitation my country is so known for. I don't believe all morality should be sacrificed on the alter of profit. Even though this complete shut down of the highways is a pain in the ass, I think it is amazing that it is happening, that the country is allowing this inconvenience, that this freedom of expression exists in a way that is not allowed in the United States. Good luck, Conaie, Viva el paro.
Arguments against the protesters (in English from a local paper)
Arguments in favor of protests, against the TLC - frightening how little I could find in English. If you speak Spanish there is a ton out there.
1 Comments:
You are so collecting the most interesting experiences. I cannot wait to read your book!
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