Sunday, January 29, 2006

El bosque magico


Jen, Tavis, Edison and I stood leaning on tools staring at an old tractor tire half submerged in the ground. Tavis said, “Its funny the things that give you a sense of accomplishment. Today I buried a tire.” Later the younger kids climbed up, down, and through the tire, then sat perched on top watching a heated game of futbol on the field Cameron has laboriously carved out of the tall grass. Most of the girls ran between nearby trees on soft moss dappled with yellow flowers playing tag, and we all felt a sense of accomplishment in seeing the little playground in el bosque magico begin to take shape.

Tuesday, January 24, 2006

Back In Zuleta


“I am not rushing. No one is ever on time here.” As we walked up to the colegio for the minga, it became apparent that people actually were on time. We fell into a fire line of people passing heavy rocks from one pile to another on the other side of the field. The colegio (high school) is building a new office building. Although I was upset about this at first, being that they have no money for teachers, books, or other materials for their classes, I calmed down when I discovered that in Ecuador, as in California, school funding is heavily restricted by category. There is money to build this building, yes, and that money can only be spent on construction, nothing else. Yet, there is no money for heavy machinery or labor, so the school called a minga, a mandatory workday in which if you don’t participate, you pay a fine. It is an old practice here, and as I understand mainly only put into use by the indigenous communities these days. So we passed boulders and cleared the building site, composted the grass, and moved more rocks. When it was through I had a huge blister on the inside of my thumb and some very sore forearms. From there we wondered back through the hacienda’s cobbled roads back towards a milking station to Don Antonio’s house, where a party to celebrate potable water was in full swing. Upon arrival at the bottom of the hill, the Camilo, a man from the garden where Cameron sometimes works, started plying us with Punta, a god-awful cane alcohol. We accepted, not realizing what we were in for. La carrera de los coches de marera (the go-cart race) arrived, and Jose ran a herd of beautiful dappled horses through the crowd. We wandered up the hill, meeting Camilo’s adopted grandpa, and arrived to la banda blaring out of loud speakers and a crowd dancing. I saw one of the women from the minga who took my hands in greeting, then started clucking at my blister. Cameron told her it is because my hands are soft. She said, “Yes, we are strong here. We work with our hands.” A force of people rotated the party with a million different types of alcohol and little shot glasses- everything from Johnny Walker to cheap peach wine in a box. We tried to say no, and sometimes succeeded, but more often no was not acceptable. As a scary old man with a huge vat of Punta pushed another shot towards me, my friend from the minga looked at me in horror and said No lo chumes. Es un trago muy malo. “Don’t get drunk on that, it’s a very bad alcohol.” We danced, we ate, we drank, we watched them break small clay pots filled with candy and flowers, we reveled in the bright green mountains, muddy boots, and bright colors, and around 4:30 in the afternoon, we began the stumble home.

Friday, January 20, 2006

For my fellow foodies

Wendy has a lovely blog called Earthly Delights in which she graciously posted some of my writing about Colombian coastal fare. Check it out!

Monday, January 16, 2006

health update

We are fever free, but still recovering from a flu that got us after scuba diving. We miraculously made it though Colombia with no major stomach upset. Thanks for reading and inquiring!

How to Obtain a Visa in Ecuador

Hire a lawyer. When he doesn’t help you, call the phone operator a ladron, curse the country, cry and scream on the sidewalk. Never assume that any process will be quick or easy. Always allow an extra day. Make four copies of everything, but realize that three of those copies will end in a rotting stack of paperwork never to be touched. Go to Colombia. Find the narrow cobbled street by the ocean and knock softly on the unmarked glass door. If no one answers go the small window and ask the lady with bad teeth for the woman with dark hair. Bring $110 US dollars, but pay $210 in pesos. Do not swallow their nonsense without a fight- even if you can’t get around it, at least you tried. Upon returning to Ecuador, take the trole to the prescribed office on the fourth floor, but discover it is a different immigration office on a different fourth floor of a different building. Upon arriving, discover you are in the wrong visa office. Go to the right office and wait. When Rodrigo comes, discover you are missing a copy of the letter you turned into this same office over a month ago. Acquire said paper from another office across town. Discover that although everything is in order, you must wait another day. Learn that the fee must be directly deposited into an account at a bank down the way (no, he cannot take your money). Go to the trole, discover there is manifestation, and public transportation is on pause. Feel the first raindrops, pull out your umbrella, and wait.

Monday, January 09, 2006

una brisa


DSCN3037
Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.

For the last two days the winds have kicked up- beginning while we slept in our hammocks above the ocean chasing away mosquitos, rattling palm fronds, creating white caps on the water. The wind followed us to Santa Marta sending infinite amounts of garbage scittering down city streets, driving dust into the air, through ventilation system and windows. Out, out cries the wind chasing the tourists into their cars, onto buses, airplanes. Leave the coast and stop this proliferation of plastic bags, empty cups, wayward wrappers, jacked up prices and over bookings. Go home to your mountains, your hot valleys, your beachless cities. the wind gives the tourits a slap on the backside as they retreat back to their jobs, schools and lives seperate from the holiday vacation. As Cameron (with a fever again) watched the news last night he heard that this week records were broken in Santa Marta for the biggest tourist season ever, and over a million people were on the road home. We hunker down and brave the wind, thankful that our inadvertant participation in the Colombian high season is coming to a close.

Monday, January 02, 2006

Año Nuevo, Playa blanca


DSCN2961
Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.
new years
The water is warm and boueys us up from the earth. The surf rocks us mildly and we hold eachother and sing as the sun takes its not so slow journey down into the ocean. The sky continues to blaze and when we emerge we walk down the beach almost cold in this very uncold place. Sand- white and soft clingling to skin, clothes, eyelashes, bottoms of beer bottles, sneaking into the sheets, riding on the tips of my hair, sharing space with salt: crusted on my face, licked clean from my skin. We shower with fresh water from a bucket and I don't even think to see if the impossibly giant cokaroach is in his hiding place. We sit at a table with candles in old plastic buckets speaking in Spanish and concentrating to not lose the thread, happy when we get the jokes, happy with the papaya from the grumpy morning market in Cartagena, happy as midnight approaches and food will be served, happy to share another bottle of rum, happy to hear the low sad song sung at midnight. Happy. on this night we are happy.