Thursday, December 29, 2005

La Buenanoche, Medellin

"Another? You're kidding." Jen commented as she noticed the five crystal shot glasses once again full of aguardiente on her grandmother's coffee table. She looked accusingly at tavis, Me, then Cameron. "Don't look at me, it was your uncle." Jen's tio abuelo chuckled, kicked back the shot, and wiped his grey mustache clean. Over 70, this man had fallen asleep in his chair after dinner, but had come back with a silent fervor, refilling our shot glasses as soon as they were empty, then waiting patiently until we noticed. "Arriba, abajo, al centro, al dentro." We finished the bottle amid a a torrent of fireworks and presents just after midnight. Christmas day was sleepy and slow, with children playing in the streets, outdoor barbeques, sunglasses, and remnants scattered from the night before (including those who never made it to bed). Christmas eve in Columbia was reminiscent of my idea of new years eve, but that party is yet to come.

Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Cumpleaños Feliz


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Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.
my b-day
For my 33rd birthday I woke up early and dined on fried plantains, corn tortillas, rice, and strong coffee with fresh cream. Chickzilla, Po, Tavis, and I accompanied a group of french people to visit the condor rehabilitation project. We bumped over the cobbles and mud standing in the back of a pick up truck. The misty air (free of rain for the first time in days) whipped around our hair and scarves and hurt our teeth as the giant green mountains rushed by. I translated from Spanish to English, which was then translated from English to french to communicate the story of these birds and then of one of the french man's connection to one of the ecuadorian workers sisters, who is living in france. Later, i knitted while my friends cooked and hid me in my room. In the afternoon, i ate inordinate amounts of sugar with the kids in the library, played pin the tail on the donkey, musical chairs, charades, and pictionary. They played with their finger puppets i brought them from Octavalo. When i got home, a huge vase of flowers awaited, along with a chocolate chake and the neighbors kids. They sang happy birthday and we giggled and ate. In the evening came the consumption of a birthday bottle of wine and another bottle of Zhumar. the day ended with cards, warm and sleepy, and I felt loved and special, home in my bed far away from home.

Wednesday, December 14, 2005

The puppy who lived


our little furry baby
Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.

From Colin, volunteer in Mojanda, Ecuador

Hey Cameron (and katie)
I hope you had a very nice weekend here in Mojanda -- I sure had an
unbelievable time in Intag, in fact I wont be able to fully convey the
gravity of the event over email -- pretty much I went as an
International Observer to a small community in the cloud forest that
is trying to prevent a major mining company (Ascendent Mining) from
coming in and destroying their entire community and way of life -- in
the end the group of 150 or so protesters took over the mining
offices, and ended up burning it down...Ben and I were there, and we
were the only two people documenting the event --- I took about 300
photos, some of which are as dramatic and shocking as you can imagine.

So the weekend was crazy. I would love to tell you more about this
when I see you guys, however next weekend probably wont work for me.

Un Arbol de la Navidad

Yesterday the kids went to the woods to collect decorations for the Christmas tree in the library- I didn’t know what to expect, but was shocked at how much moss and how many bromeliads they took from the forest. Grappling with my sense of right and wrong in regards to the woods, and experiencing a deep dismay at how many of these beautiful plants would die, I at first just stepped back to watch. They washed the plants and moss and began laying it on the floor- I asked them if they were going to put the plants on the tree- they looked at me like I was nuts. No, this is where the wise men and the animals walk to the tree- on the path... And they ran to collect rocks and sand to make a path. Someone said, don’t they do it like this in your land? I said no, we just put a blanket under the tree usually. I started thinking of all the plastic and synthetic fabrics that are involved with Christmas in my land, the advertisements, blinking lights, frezy, and stress over money- the incredible amount of waste. I got down on my knees and helped rinse off the bromeliads to nestle them down into the moss. It was beautiful and magic looking, especially after we made animals out of play dough and hid them in our little bosque. When I saw the paper and crab grass creating the “forest” in the office, I was relieved for the forest plants that not everyone takes them. I began to think, will this tradition fade? Will the children cease to run to the woods, fall into the creek, dig their hand beneath moss and accidentally catch frogs? Later in the day as I saw the chef and a friend driving away with flowering bromeliads that reached about 8 feet tall to sell at a nearby market, I came to the conclusion that this tradition is doomed, and I will enjoy these bromeliads, and the forest around us while I can.

Muerto

As I approached the library, umbrella clutched in hand, water from the heavy rains running down the cobble stone road sloshing against my boots, I spotted one of my neighbors dragging something up from under the bridge. I reached him and his son just as he plopped the medium sized black pig in the wheelbarrow. "¿Se murio?" I asked. "Si, esta muerto," he answered, dragging out the word muerto in a singsong lament. I asked him how it happened, and he said he didn’t know. "No sé, esta muerto" He’s dead, he sang again. We all three stood there looking forlornly at the chancito lying motionless in the wheelbarrow, rain water loudly spattering against the metal, already collecting in a pool around his body. I’m sorry I said, and then his son and I gave each other a nervous smile, because our relationship is books, futbol, laughter, bike rides far from the world of adults, and this death is out of context. I shivered as I walked away remembering Carolina’s story of how last year a three year old fell in this same creek upstream and drown. We discussed this in the context of how much freedom some of these kids have that come and go from the library, and ever since a mother asked me not to let the kids play on the bridge, I have lived in fear of one of them falling the twenty feet into that rocky bottom. At the time I tried to explain to this mother that it really wasn’t my responsibility- that my job was to care for the library and that I wasn’t there to watch the kids. She didn’t even begin to listen to me- she interrupted and explained more thoroughly why the kids shouldn’t play on the bridge. My United States public educational system understanding of child care, liability, responsibility, and parenting screamed in protest: I didn’t say I would watch all these kids in the afternoon- I didn’t say I would watch your kid -this is a library- if you send them unaccompanied, they are on their own- I am not responsible- but in fact I am. I am the adult that is around. This whole idea that it takes a village to raise a child has more layers than I realized- as I watch the kids ramble around, playing in the fields, buying candy, running, coming and going as they please, I experience a mixture of elation, fear, jealousy, and dread. Their bodies are so strong, and there is so much less fear imbedded in their psyche than in most kids in the states. But what at first appeared as complete lack of supervision, at closer look isn’t quite so. There is the grandma who walks by and asks if her grandsons will walk with her- they are free to say no, but there are the older cousins who live next door around. There is the system of aunts, neighbors, and cousins who remind Mateo to walk home with his sister, or to go to his aunts if his mom is working. I am assumed to be part of this system, but as the number of kids coming to the library has declined, I wonder if I somehow failed in my responsibility to the village. It has come to my attention that many parents send their kids to the library and expect them to stay there for the entire afternoon- not come and go as they please. I have heard rumors of complaints that all the kids are doing is playing, and parents are sending them to the library to learn. This chafes against my understanding of what a library is, but there has never been one here before and so it must be what is needed, what will be used. I am accepting that I am responsible for the kids who come, and that it is up to me to structure their time to be safe, productive, fun, and feasible for those of us who work here. As I look back over the deaths that passed through our little barrio this month (whether caused by poison, virus, bacteria, or act of god has never been determined, but puppy Cooper did survive), I am glad that the toll has only included two dogs, one chicken, and two pigs, and left the children alone. As my neighbors wheeled their black chancito back to their house, I hoped that it really was the last death in this streak that has passed over our little corner of the town.

Monday, December 05, 2005

A package from afar


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Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.

Jen and Tavis arrived on Saturday to begin their South American travels. they brought with them a box loaded with goodies from the states which included:

Candles shaped like lemons
A san francisco t-shirt with rhinestones
A DVD of friends and family at our wedding
A DVD of baby Dominique
Two beautifully decorated journals (one that says Katie- Yes, Feel Magic)
Pre-natal vitamins (a little premature, but that's OK)
a yoga mat
stripy socks
dark organic chocolate
chili powder
acidopholus pills
hair ties that don't break and snarl
Dan Savage's new book (SIGNED- with the additional note "Sarah Rocks")
a rubber bouncy ball
crayons
colored pencils
book marks
An array of American Magazines
A little dear made of willow
A cool necklace made from a spoon
Carharts for Cameron
Airborne
A literary anthology from two writer's groups (of which Wendy was one of the editors)
Notes of love
A large bottle of nivea lotion (minus the added latin american perfumes)
A photo album of my new baby niece (which made me cry)
A copy of the Guardian with an article about a friend from high school
Christmas undies
Hershey's Chocolate Bars that say "Here She Is" with Dominique's birth info
Decorations for my coming b-day

sleepy day after


sleepy day after
Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.
Becca told me she has this picture as her screen saver, and I had to go back and look at it. Now that baby is out of Sarah's body and in the world, growing rapidly. Cameron and I are married, and far from Sarah and Van's land in Washington where I have experienced so much friendship and magic. I feel so greatful for all that love and look forward to returning there as we all grow- grow up, grow older, grow bigger.

Friday, December 02, 2005

The King of the wild boys


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Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.
In a moment of stillness.

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Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.
In motion.

Vecinos


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Originally uploaded by Cameron/Duff.
The neighbors kids, our library constants, fellow futbolistos,lovers of puppies, teachers of Spanish, and companions for the walk home.

Thursday, December 01, 2005

The grumpy report

I have been grumpy before bed this week, taken by an uncharacteristic exhaustion that wipes me out before 10:00.

The indigenous people are in paro in the Province of Imbaburra- the government has left a public water project hanging- leaving the people grumpy and without water. A company swindled them out of a bunch of money for the necessary study to install the water lines. The study was botchy and half assed, and to do it again will cost $1,000,000, which they don’t have- no doubt leaving the politicians grumpy. Many of the highways are closed, leaving travelers grumpy, only to be surpassed by the grumpiness of bus drivers, although some indigenous communities who already have water are accepting bribes to let the buses pass (we are one of them), which is definitely cause for grumpiness among the indigenous communities who are striking.

On my first attempt at taking a horse to visit rural schools, Norteño decided he was far too grumpy to let me usher him off into the mountains alone. The second horse, Dulceña, grumpily conceded to be separated from her buddies for this journey, but I have may have gotten there faster if I walked. The time was made up by her ecstatic galloping as we returned.

Today two very pushy teachers arrived to inform me they were coming for a field trip to the condor restoration project tomorrow. When I told them this was not possible, they argued with me for some time, leaving us both grumpy. I was reconciled when I went to see their principal about scheduling field trips for their school. I told her that tomorrow was too short of notice, and she replied “claro.” She said that she had told them as much.